Author: Rebecca Tyrrell

The Knitter’s Book of Wool

“I have always loved wool — I mean really and truly loved it, like Claude Monet loved his Giverny and Julia Child loved her butter. Discovering a new wool yarn, smelling it, touching it, dreaming of what I can do with it, knitting and washing a swatch and seeing how it transforms…those things make me fill complete and fulfilled.” –Clara Parkes, from The Knitter’s Book of Wool

Do you dream of sheep? Not necessarily counting sheep to fall back asleep, but of their thick wool, gentle eyes, soft, baa-ing voices….yeah, me neither. But I wonder if Clara Parkes ever has. This lady has put some serious thought into sheep and wool.

About a third of this book is dedicated to wool; the various breeds of sheep it comes from, the way it plays with other fibers; all about staple length and crimp, for starters. She breaks the sheep breeds down into the particular characteristics of their wool, such as fineness, staples length, crimp, and luster. There are absolutely adorable illustrations of each breed, ranging from the California Variegated Mutant (really) sheep to Shetland, with other breeds like Merino and Bluefaced Leicester in between. She’s put more consideration into sheep and wool yarn than I ever have about…probably anything.

If I were a spinner I’d adore this book. As a knitter I love it. The amount of detail about staple length and crimp really lends itself to people who spend a lot of time with those fibers running between their fingers. Spinning, for some reason, is the only fiber art I’ve tried that didn’t really stick. I use my spindle to twist cords for bags. Clara writes about different other types of fiber that work well with wool to give the blend characteristics that wool itself doesn’t have, like adding silk or mohair to add luster and drape.

There are plenty of patterns included in this book, divided by fiber characteristics, wool types, and what kind of item would best suit them. For example, using a softer, machine-washable yarn for a child’s cardigan or a mostly-merino yarn for a colorwork pillow.

All in all, this strikes me as a book mainly written from a love of wool. The patterns included are handy, but the main purpose is a thorough study of the fiber and the unique qualities it holds. Clara has written two other books in this series, The Knitter’s Book of Yarn and The Knitter’s Book of Socks.

Sea Glass tee, take two!

Right after I wrote my last post, I frogged my Sea Glass Tee. After spending some time writing about it, I actually took a look at what was on my needles. Somehow — probably because I didn’t scrape together enough stitch markers for the yoke increases while I was knitting the first few rounds so my increase points got a little out of hand — I didn’t have the same amount of increase points that the pattern called for. In my defense, my Scholar’s Jacket takes up quite a few markers by itself, so I was running low, and I was a bit too excited (and a bit too lazy) about the project to go and scrape together more because it meant I would have to put the project down. A nerd am I. So I fudged the last few increase points, and therefore missed one.

I also came to realize I didn’t dig my gauge. I was knitting on twos to match the gauge given in the pattern, and going down so many needle sizes completely skewed my row gauge. Normally I don’t care so much about row gauge, because I feel stitch gauge is more critical, but I checked what I was hitting against the pattern gauge and I was far more compressed row-wise. So I threw caution to the wind, figured with a yoke pattern I could try it on for fit easily, frogged what I had, and switched to fives. And scrounged up enough stitch markers to go all the way around this time. Also, I pulled some more sock yarn to toss in the mix. I found a left-over skein of Wildfoote Sock Yarn from Brown Sheep that I picked up in Maine, and some ancient Palette from KnitPicks. Using the Palette makes it so that I’ll have to hand-wash this, but I was going to do that anyway. No sense risking a funky felting situation by mixing so many different yarns. Still loving this pattern, even more now that I’ve got it going right.

Almondine

Finished a pair of Almondine socks by Anne Hanson from Sock Knitting Master Class. Funny, it wasn’t until I starting knitting my first pair of socks from that book that I found what truly separates it from all the other sock books I’ve knit from so far have…the fact that each pattern comes in multiple sizes, and those sizes aren’t simply determined by gauge (which has been known to happen…larger gauge will get you a larger garment, but I’ve found that to be slightly lazy pattern writing), but by stitch count. So, if you’re like me and your gauge is freakishly large, you can simply choose a size that fits your gauge, So I just cast on the size that called for 60 stitches, which seems to be my magic number, and ended up with a pair of socks that fit me very well, without much extra effort on my part.

The designer says in the descriptive text that the stitch pattern is easily memorized, but these socks are definitely sisters, not twins. Turns out that only knitting on them in spurts over the past few months makes you forget where you are in the pattern. Good think the yarn is kind of busy for the lace, so only I can tell that my yarn-over diagonal eyelets don’t alternate like they should. Anyone else with their face close enough to my feet to tell me I’ve messed up is in a perfect position to be kicked.

I used Studio Sock by Neighborhood Fiber Co., which is the same gloriously dyed yarn it has always been. I love the dyer’s vivid colors, even if I may hand wash these the first few times I wear them, just so nothing else gets dyed purple. Knitting on them for a while turned my righthand pointer finger blue, but that washes off, and it’s the price one pays for such stunning colorways. Knitting with this particular shade Shami is like knitting with berry-stained yarn. Every once in a while you get to a section of reddish purple that reminds me of a perfectly ripe blueberry. The base is different from the last time I knit with it, less bouncy, but it’s also been about ten years since the last time I knit with that yarn. They’ve changed their base to be totally organic. The resulting yarn is a tad splitty, though. It may behave better in crochet, which works because I had enough left over to be used in the crochet Sea Glass Tee by Wool and Pine which I had absolutely no business buying because I’m not done with the knit version yet, but I just couldn’t help myself. Haven’t cast on for it yet; I’m trying to exercise what little yarn-related self restraint I have and finish the knit version first.

…just one more row, and I swear I’ll put it down…

I have a problem. First step is admitting it, right? Friday night I started the Sea Glass Tee by Wool & Pine, and if it weren’t for the fact that basic human (and dog) needs still exist, I wouldn’t be able to put it down. Something about the one by one colorwork just makes you need to keep knitting….and knitting…and knitting. Technically I’m not following the pattern exactly. The pattern as written has you swapping out yarns at the beginning of each row, using the magic knot join (a join technique that leaves no ends to weave in), but since I’m using two full skeins of yarn I’ve just been knitting around.

One of the main appeals of this pattern is to use up bits and ends of stash yarn, sticking to fingering weight, to create a top with little pops of color. I’m keeping to the basic principle, though, by using two skeins of sock yarn that once bought, I discovered they weren’t really suited to become socks. I’m using the last skein of Cascade Heritage Prints which is a delightful yarn but felts pretty easily, and pairing it with West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4-Ply, which doesn’t have a felting issue that I’ve noticed, but is a pretty vivid shade of kelly green. I dig kelly green, but not by itself. I bought it ages ago, when I bought my first colorwork sock book, so it’s been hanging out in my stash for quite a while. I had every intention of using it in a pair of colorwork socks, but when I took it out and laid it next to the other colors I was going to use, I changed my mind. Something about the shade itself….

I think these yarns were destined to be knit together. The way they enhance each other is pretty neat. The solid wall of kelly green is broken up by the stripes of the other skein, and they make each other better. My other WIPS are staring at me, especially my winter coat, telling me how much I’m going to regret spending time on this tee when the weather gets colder, but I don’t care! I can stop whenever I want! Just not right now. One more row…

Contemplating on a Scholar

Been a seriously busy month. Lot going on work-wise, and there’s a fairly big chance I’ll be moving further south in the next months to be closer to a new job. Should be able to afford a house with more yarn/books/books about yarn (er….storage) space! I was so distracted by everything changing so quickly that I forgot to show my new in-progress winter coat! It’s the Scholar’s Jacket from Knitted Jackets knit out of Valley Yarns Northampton in Merlot Heather, so the color is a little darker in real life. I knew I wanted my new winter coat to come out of Knitted Jackets, but was torn between the Edwardian Day Coat and the Scholar’s Jacket. I like the general shape of the Day Coat better, but wanted pockets. I was already to either slap a pair of patch pockets or do a fancier sort of afterthought pocket, but when the yarn came in, I realized after hours of swatching that I was never going to match the gauge of the Day Coat with the Northampton, so the Scholar’s Jacket (which has pockets incorporated into the pattern) it was. Pockets; always a good idea.

Knit like a Latvian Socks

“Latvia is a small country located in Northern Europe, by the Baltic Sea, smaller than Scotland and with less than half as many inhabitants. The damp and windy coastal climate has always created a need for warm clothing, which is why Latvia is steeped in a rich heritage of knitting traditions.” –Knit Like a Latvian Socks by Ieva Ozolina

Ieva Ozolina’s delightful book, which has a companion book called simply Knit Like a Latvian (first link in the first paragraph goes to Amazon, the second link goes to Ozolina’s online shop Hobbywool. I would have preferred to link both books to her shop but at the time of this writing the shop doesn’t have Knit Like a Latvian Socks listed for sale). Knit Like a Latvian is a collection of mitten patterns, and I’m not much of a mitten girl, but clearly our focus today is on Latvian socks, and you know how much I love knitting socks! If ever I become a mitten girl I’ll be sure to pick up her mitten book.

The patterns are divided into sections based on sock length, starting with ankle socks, which at first I was confused by because my interpretation of ankle socks are…well….socks that end at your ankle. Once I read the opening section, it became clear that the author and designer calls them ‘ankle socks’ because the patterning ends at the ankle, keeping the foot portion simple so it can be easily re-knitted. The patterns in this book call for an all-wool yarn, as is traditional, so if you had to darn (or entirely re-knit) the sock, the most likely places that would wear through soonest would be in the toes and heels, and it would be far less heartache to fix. Nothing wrong with using a sock yarn with a nylon content to help with that issue, and that’s exactly what I would do. Yes, I did google Latvian sock history, hoping to find some delightful yarn-y rabbit hole going into exhaustive detail on the height of traditional Latvian socks, but for once it was not to be found. Yet.

The patterns are set up in such a way so that each pattern is a two-page spread, with one page for the chart and details, and the facing page is a photograph of the finished product. Many of the patterns, especially those in the ankle sock section are focused on the colorwork portion above the ankle. In fact, the majority of the written pattern is focused on the colorwork, with the foot section all being pulled from her Basic Sock Recipe located in the back of the book. There is a section at the beginning of the book about Latvian traditional symbols, such as the Sign of Auseklis, otherwise known as the Morning Star which is a traditional eight-pointed star motif.

The rest of the patterns in the book (50! in total) are centered on longer socks (knee length and so on) and are more varied in construction. There are full-on lace patterned knee socks, colorwork knee socks in the same vein as the ankle socks but patterned all the way down, and a section on foot-less leg warmers. If I had a criticism, and I do, it would be that some of the chart patterns in this book are very compressed in order to fit more patterns into the book. If you are someone with vision problems or even if you’re knitting after a long day at work staring at a computer screen, you might have trouble reading the symbols. That can be managed, of course. I’m thinking of those portable magnification screens or even scanning a chart and making it larger. Don’t let that put you off, though. It’s certainly possible to knit straight from the book without having to adjust anything, but I know at least for myself I would have to pay close attention.

Socks from Around Norway

“Creative women stand behind most of the stockings I have included. Individual districts have strong, distinctive traditions. In working on this book, I have, among other things, shown how clever and industrious people were at knitting cable stockings, particularly in Telemark and Agder. The yarn is so fine and the techniques so advanced that it’s genuinely difficult to recreate them today. Other places have stockings made with the finest stripe compositions or eight-petal roses. In Numendal, the so-called byggkorn pattern was often uses — a fun but almost forgotten technique. I’ve tried to include something from each of Norway’s provinces. Some places have so much exciting work available it was difficult to choose.” — Nina Granlund Sæther, Socks from Around Norway

Socks from Around Norway, being a knitting pattern book filled with sock patterns from around Norway, does what it says on the tin, and is a colorwork fan’s dream. A large portion of the patterns are based around colorwork, with frequent use of versions of the Selbu Rose. I always thought of that general look as a Norwegian Star, picked up from any of the half-billion knitting publications I’ve read, but it’s enlightening to see what a Norwegian well-versed in knitting traditions calls the motif. There are also plenty of patterns utilizing lace and knit-purl patterns, but the majority of patterns are colorwork, which puts me in mind of traditional Scandinavian sweaters. The patterns vary in style, from socks that rise a few inches above the ankles to a pair of truly stunning lace above-the-knee stockings. The sizing is a bit limited. Some patterns that the author considers unisex come in multiple sizes, but most come in one size. Tell you what, now that I’ve been knitting a pair of Almondine from Sock Knitting Master Class I’ve come to be spoiled by the multiple sizes offered in each pattern, which means I can easily adjust for my loose gauge by casting on for whichever size calls for about 60 stitches and the socks will fit without me having to adjust the pattern.

However, what Socks from Around Norway brings to the theoretical table is a truly inspiring collection of patterns, each with fascinating historical background and inspiration. Each pattern is steeped in tradition, but not a slave to it. Considering what the author has to say about the incredibly thin yarns and intricate techniques used in the original stockings, she’s successfully distilled that knowledge and developed over 40 distinct patterns that are relevant to our lives now. I try to tell myself that I don’t need my own copy, that I’ve already got plenty of sock knitting books, but I don’t doubt I’ll eventually succumb to the call of colorwork.

Feel Good Socks

First time knitting with a cotton-based sock yarn, Yarns like that often rely on a blend of Spandex or Lycra to lend the yarn elasticity which comes naturally in a wool-based sock yarn. For my Feel Good socks I used Plymouth Diversity which was a total impulse buy from Webs. You need to tension the yarn a little tighter than normal to achieve a decent fit due to the elasticity, but the pair fits pretty well.

The pattern itself is cute, but it’s a good case study as to the use of standardized knitting chart symbols. The main issue I noticed while looking at other knitter’s finished socks on Ravelry is that it’s easy to misread the pattern and knit the cuffs in stockinette stitch based lace instead of garter. In most cases, and I realize this is a huge, sweeping, generalization a knit stitch in a chart is represented by a blank square, and a purl stitch by a square with a black dot in the center. If the chart shows all rows, as the chart for this pattern does, and you are knitting back and forth, the plain rows between the lace pattern rows would be indicating knit stitches for garter based lace. However, the chart for this pattern has black dots for the pattern rows, which in most examples would indicate purl stitches for stockinette stitch. The key for the chart does indicate that the black dot symbols on the plain rows are meant to be knit on the wrong side, but if you were knitting on autopilot you might miss that and knit stockinette. Not that it matters, really, in a pair of socks as cute as these, and that’s a bit of a petty nitpick but it did trip me up. The knit-on lace edging is a pretty intriguing concept for a fold-over cuff, and I think I’ll be doing it again.

Concentric Circles

Yes, I know I said I was done with commissions. And yes, apparently I lied. Sometimes I just can’t help it. A co-worker of mine asked me to knit her a hat, and I obliged. I modeled it off a blue slouchy tam-ish hat I knit about eight years ago, but went bigger and slouchier per specifications. She wanted bright pink, neon green, and black together but I found it difficult to find a yarn line that had all three colors to a degree I deemed acceptable, until I remembered KnitPicks and Palette exist. It had been about seven years or so since I had ordered from that website so I had to chuck a few skeins of Stroll Tweed into my cart. Sock yarn doesn’t count as stash, right?

Initially I wasn’t super fond of the pink I used, Rose Hip. It’s a pretty color by itself, but I didn’t think it quite hit the ‘bright’ mark, but up next to the black and slightly heathered green, it works.

No pattern, I cast on what looked like enough stitches for a wide knit-one-purl-one ribbed band, then picked up stitches all the way around and increased about sixty percent, knit for about six inches total with two-row stripes of each color, then decreased. Slowly at first, but I increased the rate so it would lie pretty flat. I used the slip-stitch method for jogless (as much as possible) stripes. I knit a full round of a color, then the last stitch on the second round (or third, fourth, depending on how wide your stripes are) is slipped so there is less of a disconnect in the stripes. Not perfect, it’s hard to see in the picture but there is a little jump in the colors, but as good as is possible with stripes in the round, and something only the knitter would notice. I did the final decreases for the crown during the gallery during Sunday’s board meeting, and blocked it that night. Fingers were crossed, because the hat I was modeling it from disappeared (eaten by the couch, probably) and I was asked to make it about twenty-five percent slouchier, but she seems pretty happy with it.

Diotima Shell

After more than a few frogs (read the pattern, woman), I’ve finished my Diotima Shell by Kirsten Hipsky. The pattern is pretty interesting for such a simple looking top. You cast under what will become the armpits, knit for a few inches, then bind off the middle stitches for a neck opening. You then cast on the same amount of stitches that you bound off on the next round, knit until the the two halves are the same length, then switch to circulars and knit in the round until it’s as long as you want it.

The pattern tells you to knit a certain amount of rows rather than inches, which isn’t ideal because in order for the top to fit the way the pattern is written, you need to have the exact same row gauge as well as stitch gauge. Stitch gauge is pretty easy to match, but row gauge is much harder, and you would pretty much have to use the same yarn and needle size as the designer. Seeing as I hardly ever end up doing that, I measured the distance between where I wanted the armhole to hit to the top of my shoulders, and knit for that length instead. I also knit a sideways ending instead of binding off in rib. That way, the edge was as stretchy as possible.

Hipsky seems to have retired the pattern and replaced it with the Hypatia Shell. Hypatia seems like it fits differently, and looking at the Webs description it is knit from the bottom up instead of the over-the-shoulder construction of Diotima.