Silver and gold, silver and gold…

I know, I don’t sound much like Burl Ives. I was asked to do some holiday-related pieces for the gallery but I didn’t want anything cheesy.

Ignore the purple, I used that to spread the header. I decided to break out the pickup stick for some interesting visual lines. Measured stripes! Symmetry! Not usually my style, but I chose to mix it up a little.

Ever saw a technique someone else came up with and got a little irritated that it was such a great idea? Thinking, someone went to Smarty School, didn’t they? Graduated top of your class, huh? How dare they have such a good idea? Why didn’t I think of that….

Syne Mitchell in Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom has a section on the use of the pickup stick (used to lift only certain warp threads to create patterns) and how to use one so that you don’t have to remove and replace it every time you want to make a patterned row. I was baffled until I read more about it. You place the pickup stick behind the heddle, and use it to pick up the warp threads that are in the slots, not the holes. Placing it behind the heddle means you can save the pattern.

I kept the image big so you could see what I mean. To use the pickup stick’s pattern, you turn the stick on its side, and the warp threads you picked up pop up, and you weave like normal.

See the shed on the left-hand side after the fabric created by the heddle and modified by the pickup stick? You then just slide your shuttle through, beat back the fabric, turn the pickup stick flat against the warp threads and continue weaving, until it’s time to do another pattern row and you turn the stick again.

Looking at the fabric that’s appearing, I’m going to see what it looks like when I’m done but I’ve starting to think I may use it as something other than a bag. The weft yarn is a loose single ply, and the resulting fabric looks a bit delicate. I used cotton thread as usual for the warp and that combined with the single ply means I can’t beat it down as hard as I usually do to create a weft-faced weave for a tougher fabric. I know I’m pretty hard on my bags, so I don’t want to create something, sew it up as a bag, than tell the buyer they have to be delicate with it.

I’m also in the market for an scale for weighing finished items for shipping. I’m looking for something accurate, but not so accurate and sensitive that I end up on an FBI watch list. Any ideas?

Small striped handbag with colors only a mother could love..

My original intent was to cast on a warp long enough for several change purses, wallets, etc. for both the shop and the galley. Unsurprisingly, my plans changed and I wove one length of fabric and turned it into one bag, instead.

I knew I wanted a drawstring bag, but instead of weaving enough fabric to fold over as a casing I stitched bias tape at the top and enclosed the cord in it as I finished off the top. Apparently I chose the most finicky method possibly, but it worked. You have to keep pulling the cord before every stitch to make certain it doesn’t get caught up in the binding.

For this bag I used scrap Lion Brand Jeans, Cascade 220 fingering and I think Trekking XXL self-striping sock yarn. The blend of fibers means that the bag should be hand-washed and laid flat to dry. The cord is pretty short, making this a handbag only by the strictest legal definition of a bag one carries in one’s hand (or looped around one’s wrist), and I used my oft-neglected spindle to ply it together. It’s small, slightly smaller than six by eight but that makes it perfect for a wallet, water bottle, phone, and keys.

I’ll post it for sale at ATEOMY once I get some pictures that weren’t taken in my kitchen at 9:30 at night.

Emerald leaves and stripey things

Now that the wedding wrap sweaters are off to their forever home and my time is my own again, I’ve started to weave some small bags to use as simple wallets and coin purses, etc. for my Etsy and the gallery. Heaven forbid I get bored, or else I’ll start clawing the furniture. I got some great new ideas from Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom about using bias tape and ribbon to edge woven pieces with, so I figured I’d warp about five or six feet of crochet cotton and weave separate sections of roughly ten inches each to get multiple bags out of one warp. Add a fabric lining and a zipper and that should be a good little holiday gift, or for whenever. I’m back to my weft-faced stress-relief ways, as it should make a more stable bag. It’s a good way to use up stashed yarns, especially different weights and fibers for some interesting textures. No reason not to go a little crazy, especially on such a small item.

Also working on finishing the Veronica cotton top from Sweater Girls. Just in time for…um…winter. It’ll keep. Using Bamboo Pop from Webs, so it’s a brilliant sheen and color and a joy to knit with but very slippery so if you drop a stitch, if you don’t catch it immediately it drops several rows. Nice change of pace from gray stockinette.

Designing Knitwear




Now, for something completely different! In a way. I’m working on finishing an emerald green lace shirt from Sweater Girls and it’s completely refreshing to be working on something not gray and not wool. As much as I love gray and wool, it’s a welcome change.

Going through my ever-increasing book collection I see Designing Knitwear by Deborah Newton. What better way to start brainstorming about designing new patterns than to learn from the best?

There is a lot of great information in this boom about getting inspiration from outside sources and other textiles, like Japanese prints that she grabs colors and themes from and turns that into a striking sweater. The first section of the book takes about training ourselves to see the potential in everyday objects. “Happily, with my interest in design came an awakening of my sight. This was a very gradual process, which I was unaware of at first. But, with my goal of becoming a designer in mind, I began to scrutinize everything more carefully. Soon I found myself actively involved in seeing things more clearly.” -Deborah Newton

Now, this book was first printed in 1992 so I’ll be the first to admit some of the patterns and garments are a bit dated, but the techniques are still very current. Looking through this book I’m reminded of when I first went through it and was astounded by her motorcycle jacket. It’s knitted, heavily cabled, with contrasting zippers and heavy hardware to complement the texture of the fabric. I was floored. At that time I had never seen something like that, which really showcases her genius as a designer. Someday, I’ll knit one of my own. She took that inspiration from the heavy, almost armor-like motorcycle jacket and recreated it in a completely different medium but tied the two together with the finished jacket’s complex shade and defining profile. She walks us all the way through her design process and gives us the tools we need to start designing our own patterns.

Pick it up on Amazon here

Wedding Sweaters, striped wallets, and bunny rabbits, oh my!

AKA: Stitch n’ Bitch Superstar Knitting




I have to say, there is a value to blocking a sweater in a hotel room with generic hotel shampoo. You have an entire other bed and plenty of real estate to work with. It’s a slightly different story in a 400 square foot house, where you have to carefully fold it like origami (but not too much, you don’t want it to dry weird), drape it like so over the drying rack, you don’t want to use your own bed because you kind of need it….which is why the only half-decent photo I managed to take looks like a gray blob. Having said that, of course it means that both wedding wrap sweaters are done! Next step is to write up the pattern for sale on my Etsy. And on to other things! Like color. I love gray, it’s my favorite color, but how about some stripes? Speaking of which, I’m going to be working on some bags and coin purses, wallets, and that sort of thing for sale on both my Etsy and also at the gallery where I volunteer, the Fredericksburg Center for the Creative Arts. That starts in December, just in time for holiday shopping, which gives me time to build stock.

It seems to be Theme Week on At the End of My Yarn. Stitch n’ Bitch Superstar Knitting! Debbie Stoller wasn’t kidding around when she tells us to go beyond the basics. Much in the same vein as the other books in the series, Superstar Knitting has 41 different patterns curated from other designers. This book focuses on more complex techniques and patterns, so this book assumes you’ve got the basics down. She gets into much more detail, such as ways to make sure the color changes in striped ribbing are clean, double knitting, intarsia, more complicated cables and lace than what you see in her other books, and much more. In this book you’ll see multiple cast on and off methods, different ways to increase and decrease, buttonholes, and other more in-depth sections. There is more about pattern construction, and how to write one (that could come in handy!), so she’s definitely writing for the more experienced knitter.

The patterns themselves are more complex than we saw from her earlier, and most of them use more complicated skills and stitch patterns, like lace panels in a dress and intarsia for a bunny rabbit baby blanket. So, if you’re ready to up your knitting game, or even for beginner who wants to jump in with both feet, take a look at Stitch n’ Bitch Superstar Knitting!

Pick it up on Amazon here

Stitch n’ Bitch The Knitter’s Handbook




I have a tendency to keep books that I’ve knit at least one pattern from. I think it has to do with respect, in my mind, but if I don’t change that line of thinking soon, I’ll run out of space. It would probably be easier, and more likely, to just buy a bigger house next time I move. The first in the Stitch n’ Bitch series (you’re already familiar with at least the crochet one), Stitch n’ Bitch The Knitter’s Handbook by Debbie Stoller would be a grand addition to any knitting library. And I don’t just say that because I’ve knit several of the patterns in this book.

The first few sections are like essays, with a great one about fiber arts and feminism. She says, and I agree, that she thought knitting was being looked down on as a hobby because it was considered such a traditionally female activity. “It made me rethink my original feminist position. After all, it had been thirty years since the feminist revolution of the 1970s and housewives as we knew them had pretty much gone the way of the dinosaur, so why, dammit, wasn’t knitting receiving as much respect as any other hobby?” This book was first published in 2003, so we’ve come a long way since then, I think. “Why couldn’t we all — women and men alike — take the same kind of pride in the work our mothers had always done as we did in the work of our fathers?” Now in 2019, of course we know of some pretty famous male knitters like Franklin Habit, Stephen West, and Kaffe Fassett.

The next section is the standard ‘how to’ portion, with plenty of information and graphics on the mechanics of knitting. She’ll tell you all about the different fiber types, how to read a yarn label, how different weights of yarn compare to each other, and more. She writes on all the basics of knitting and purling, both English style and Continental. In the English style your working yarn is generally held in your right hand and the yarn is ‘thrown’ over the needle to create stitches. The Continental method, which I believe Elizabeth Zimmermann also called the German method has you holding your yarn in your left hand and ‘picking’ your stitches as you knit them. Now, I can do both methods and that’s very useful for stranded colorwork but I’m primarily a Continental knitter, because I was a crocheter first and the yarn is almost always held in your left hand.

Patterns in the book start out very basic, like a garter stitch scarf and a garter head ‘kerchief’ to cover your head like a hat, to sweaters, bikinis (no thanks), and more.

Debbie Stoller compiled the patterns from all different sorts of knitters like her other fiber books, but the actual written patterns are edited in a uniform way so the verbiage is consistent.

Taking a look back, some of the essays are a little dated, but they were consistent with the time the book was written, and the patterns are classics.

Pick up a copy on Amazon here

Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom




My rigid heddle loom was the first semi-grown up purchase I made with my first semi-grown up paycheck when I started dispatching. I got it from Halcyon Yarns here and once it came, spent hour after hour trying to put it together. I couldn’t find any videos that were of any help, anything I did find looked like it was shot from outside the house, the loom was so out of focus. Sitting there cursing at it like ‘my bum it’s a ‘beginner’s loom, suitable for children’, this semi-grown up can’t figure it out’. Eventually, I managed it.

Everything was smooth sailing from there, until I moved out of my parent’s house, bought my own place, and managed to lose my warping hook in the process. It’s possible to warp a rigid heddle loom without a hook, but it’s a pain in the bum and I lost the weaving mojo because of it. Finally, I ordered a new one, and the doors of woven fabric were open to me again!!

Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom by Syne Mitchell is a book I wish I’d known about when I started.

Not only does it go into extensive detail on how the loom works, it also takes you through the process of weaving from start to finish. She tells you how to fix the inevitable warp issues when you’re first starting out, and takes you all the way from a basic weave to patterned weaves. Syne gives us advice on color theory and the unique way it applies to weaving, and moves on to practical projects that spotlight her techniques. There is so much in this book that I never even considered could be woven on a little loom like mine, such as wire bracelets, tartan table runners, and even full size blankets! Totally possible, as long as you don’t mind a little sewing at the end. Now, back to those bags from earlier….

Pick it up on Amazon here

First Book of Modern Lace Knitting




My dream house has stacks of books everywhere, every piece of furniture an antique, yarn as far as the eye can see (within reason, storage space is finite), and lace doilies protecting every surface that warrants one. And some that don’t. I have a weakness for fine lace knitting, and especially for lace doilies. I’d put one on the arms and back of my couch if I thought there was a chance my dog wouldn’t knock it off in the middle of the night so that it falls behind and gets eaten by a dust bunny.

On that note, I present the First Book of Modern Lace Knitting by Marianne Kinzel (naturally, one of her other books is the Second). It was published in 1972, so the language is a little dated but the concepts and patterns are still vital. The first second goes over the basic stitches and patterns used in her patterns and the second, third, and fourth are all about the patterns. The chapters are named after the shape and method used to knit them. Chapter two is about “designs knitted on two pins”, which of course just means back-and-forth on straight needles. The third chapter is for making circular pieces, and the fourth is for making square ones.

The projects themselves are the only places the age of this book works against it. For instance, are you really going to knit a rectangular cloth specifically for lining a tea tray? Unless you own a traditional tearoom or worked on the set of Downton Abbey I kind of doubt it. But could you knit it in a larger gauge and use it as a pillow case or as a table runner? Absolutely. The trick is to look past the styling and what Marianne expected you to knit in 1972 and apply it to what you want to make in 2019. Am I about to knit a bedspread using crochet cotton thread? Not if you held a gun to my head. But in a larger gauge, thicker yarn, larger needles and fewer repeats? It’s completely plausible. If you are a fan of delicate handwork, give this series a look.

Pick it up on Amazon here…

Sweater Design in Plain English




I think I have a definite type when it comes to fiber books. Strong writers who have a natural, informative feel but don’t make it too stuffy and technical to really enjoy. Maggie Righetti’s writing reads like she’s sitting right next to you on the couch, helping you with your design and knitting. Sweater Design in Plain English, first printed in 1990, is a step-by-step manual on designing your own knitting patterns. Similar in tone to Elizabeth Zimmermann’s work (who I know you’ve heard me talk about all too much), Maggie Righetti and Terri Shaw (who helped her with the revised edition that came out in 2011 and is the copy I’m reviewing from) have written a classic.

Starting with ‘What is a Sweater, Anyway?’ which she writes about the basic function of a sweater (other than the obvious), and why certain traditional patterns and designs are the way they are. For example she tells us the traditional pullover was originally considered a man’s garment because women usually wore a shawl over a button-front bodice in order to assist with childcare. “There was often a division of labor defining men’s work and women’s work. Caring for children was women’s work and, therefore, men didn’t need to pick up, hold, or comfort babies.” Keep in mind she’s talking about in the historical sense. That attitude is slowly changing, or I like to think so.

She then writes about overcoming a fear of failure, and makes some very valid points. “There are many critical people in the world. (They might even outnumber the supportive ones.) Depending on the environment you live in and the thought patterns of the people who surround you, you must expect to be criticized for creativity, for solving your problems in a unique way, and for making innovative changes whether or not your efforts are successful.” She tells us that the best way to get over unwanted criticism is to think where the critic is coming from. Is it from jealously that you’ve dared to knit, crochet, or design something they would be too afraid of the unknown to attempt? Righetti tells us that as soon as we understand unwanted criticism’s nature, it won’t matter to us. Easy to apply to things other than knitting, as well.

After the soul-gazing we do in the early chapters, she gets to the of the book. It starts with choosing yarns suited to your idea for a design. Ask yourself, what does this yarn want to be when it grows up? Then she moves into sizing and ways to measure. Maggie Righetti gets into fantastic detail, such as how she thinks its better not to have a double layer of knitted fabric, like for a lapel, because knitted fabric doesn’t behave like woven and the look can be accomplished better with a knit pattern that looks good from either side. Knit patterns don’t need as much ease allowance due to the stretchy behavior of knitwear. She tells us to design with about two inches of negative ease, or two inches smaller than the measurement of the person for whom you’re knitting a garment to get the best fit. There is info on body types and how to write bust darts, etc., into a pattern to accommodate the way a person is shaped.

There is the usual info on the mechanics of knitting, with different stitch patterns like lace, and cables, and intarsia. The second half delves into the patterns themselves. They are basic schematics similar to Knitting in the Old Way but they go into more detail about arrangement and construction. The designs themselves and the sections on specific details like collars and sleeves might seem a little dated, but the information is still very much valid.

Check it out on Amazon here...(also take a look at her books on knitting and crocheting, written in much the same way.

Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop




Back in 1974 Elizabeth Zimmermann ran the first knitting camp/retreat in the United States. While doing some background research on my post for this book I also found that someone at a university in Wisconsin actually wrote her thesis on it, which is quite awesome. A few years later in 1981 while at one of the week-long camps she was approached about doing a video series based on what she taught at the camp that ended up being aired on PBS. You can find further info on that on the website for the business she started in the 1950’s, Schoolhouse Press.

Eventually, a book was written which contained the lesson she taught in her videos. Aptly named after the series, Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop is written as a companion guide to the video series but also as a useful resource if you’ve never seen them. There are three main parts; Beginnings- A Hat, Two Sweaters, and Master Classes. Within those three, there are four lessons which go into greater detail. The lessons are full of her illustrations and handwriting, and the photographs for the book were taken by her daughter Meg Swansen. That touch gives this book a very personal feeling. There is some overlap between her books, for instance the Pi shawl in this book is also in The Knitter’s Almanac, and if you are familiar with that almanac you’ll also recognize the Fisherman’s Guernsey from the month of January in lesson four of part three.

This is the book where some of her more famous patterns sprang from, for example, the baby surprise jacket (and the child and adult versions) named so because in her own words, “I call it the surprise jacket because it looks like nothing on earth when you have finished knitting it. Sew up two seams, and you have the nicest little garter stitch baby-sweater or adult mind boggler.” Also included here are the Tomten, a modular-knit jacket, “yes, Swedes, I know the ‘en’ is redundant”, and the rib warmer, a vest that she calls the second-best bazaar item (presumably for selling) after the hat.

I feel that the forward by Barbara G. Walker really sums it up. “The first of Elizabeth Zimmermann’s writings that I ever read told me how to make a ribbed turtleneck: pick up a multiple of four stitches around the neck and work in knit-two purl-two ribbing until you are sick of it. When I finished laughing, I realized that Elizabeth is more than witty – she’s right. Every knitter knows that is indeed how turtlenecks are made. For many years, I and thousands of other enthusiastic Elizabeth-watchers have heartily enjoyed her wit and wisdom. She’s a delight and an inspiration. Her designs are interesting. Her written instructions combine two qualities all too seldom met together: they teach, and they amuse, both at once.”

Pick it up on Amazon here…