I think I have a definite type when it comes to fiber books. Strong writers who have a natural, informative feel but don’t make it too stuffy and technical to really enjoy. Maggie Righetti’s writing reads like she’s sitting right next to you on the couch, helping you with your design and knitting. Sweater Design in Plain English, first printed in 1990, is a step-by-step manual on designing your own knitting patterns. Similar in tone to Elizabeth Zimmermann’s work (who I know you’ve heard me talk about all too much), Maggie Righetti and Terri Shaw (who helped her with the revised edition that came out in 2011 and is the copy I’m reviewing from) have written a classic.
Starting with ‘What is a Sweater, Anyway?’ which she writes about the basic function of a sweater (other than the obvious), and why certain traditional patterns and designs are the way they are. For example she tells us the traditional pullover was originally considered a man’s garment because women usually wore a shawl over a button-front bodice in order to assist with childcare. “There was often a division of labor defining men’s work and women’s work. Caring for children was women’s work and, therefore, men didn’t need to pick up, hold, or comfort babies.” Keep in mind she’s talking about in the historical sense. That attitude is slowly changing, or I like to think so.
She then writes about overcoming a fear of failure, and makes some very valid points. “There are many critical people in the world. (They might even outnumber the supportive ones.) Depending on the environment you live in and the thought patterns of the people who surround you, you must expect to be criticized for creativity, for solving your problems in a unique way, and for making innovative changes whether or not your efforts are successful.” She tells us that the best way to get over unwanted criticism is to think where the critic is coming from. Is it from jealously that you’ve dared to knit, crochet, or design something they would be too afraid of the unknown to attempt? Righetti tells us that as soon as we understand unwanted criticism’s nature, it won’t matter to us. Easy to apply to things other than knitting, as well.
After the soul-gazing we do in the early chapters, she gets to the of the book. It starts with choosing yarns suited to your idea for a design. Ask yourself, what does this yarn want to be when it grows up? Then she moves into sizing and ways to measure. Maggie Righetti gets into fantastic detail, such as how she thinks its better not to have a double layer of knitted fabric, like for a lapel, because knitted fabric doesn’t behave like woven and the look can be accomplished better with a knit pattern that looks good from either side. Knit patterns don’t need as much ease allowance due to the stretchy behavior of knitwear. She tells us to design with about two inches of negative ease, or two inches smaller than the measurement of the person for whom you’re knitting a garment to get the best fit. There is info on body types and how to write bust darts, etc., into a pattern to accommodate the way a person is shaped.
There is the usual info on the mechanics of knitting, with different stitch patterns like lace, and cables, and intarsia. The second half delves into the patterns themselves. They are basic schematics similar to Knitting in the Old Way but they go into more detail about arrangement and construction. The designs themselves and the sections on specific details like collars and sleeves might seem a little dated, but the information is still very much valid.
Check it out on Amazon here...(also take a look at her books on knitting and crocheting, written in much the same way.